As most of you know, we lost our Sheltie, Willie last May. We finally could not stand being without a Sheltie any longer. Joe said he wanted a girl this time; a little sable. What we found was DJ, a tri-color Sheltie male pup 9 weeks old. We fell in love! He has only been with us for a week and already he comes when his name is called, takes himself out to go potty and sleeps through the night. We are so thrilled!

I read an article the other day that mentioned a vaccination for snake bite venom. I had never heard of such a thing, so I checked with my vet (Rancho Mesa Animal Hospital).  They confirmed that the vaccine does exist, but they have chosen not to carry it for at least two reasons:

1. It is not that effective. It does not protect against the venom. Instead, it works to slow it down, which can provide more time to get the pet to the vet.
2. The vaccination might give the owner a false sense of security, which could result in the pet being allowed to be in dangerous situations or environments, thinking the pet was safe if it did meet a snake. That is false and dangerous thinking.

If you decide you want the vaccine, call around, some vets in the area do carry it.

The best protection against snake bite always has been, and still is, prevention. Follow these steps to safe-guard your pet from this ever present danger:

1. Clean up your yard. Undergrowth, toys, tools can be inviting places for snakes to rest
2. Keep brush, flowers and shrubs clear of walkways.
3. Spilled food, fruit or bird seed, can attract rodents—and therefore snakes—to your yard.
4. Keep your pet on a leash and close to you when walking.
5. Keep your pet clear of long grasses, bushes and rocks where snakes could be resting.
6. If you see a snake, head back the way you came. They can strike across a distance equal to about half their body length.
7.  Know which snakes are common in your area. Snake identification could help with the pet’s treatment if it is bitten.

Suspect snake bite if your pet exhibits any of these symptoms:

1. Swelling or bleeding, especially of mouth or paws. These are sometimes hard to spot with thick coats.
2. Your pet appears to be in pain: pacing, panting, whining, etc.
3. Low blood pressure, general weakness or lethargy

If you even suspect that your pet has been bitten, do this:

1. First:  stay calm.
2. Limit your pet’s activity and do your best to keep him calm.
3. If possible, elevate the bite area.
4. It is imperative to seek immediate veterinary care for your pet.
5. Do not attempt to treat the bite yourself. Cold packs, ice, tourniquets, alcohol, bleeding the wound and trying to suck out venom waste time that you may not have.
6. Be safe. Do not try to catch, kill or handle a snake yourself. Some dead snakes can bite by simple muscle contractions.

Just like people, fat pets are at higher risk of health problems like diabetes, bad joints and a shortened lifespan. Pets at a healthy weight enjoy their lives more, are more active and live longer.

How to Tell If Your Pet Is Overweight

Here are ways to identify and correct obesity in your dog or cat.

It’s not always easy to tell if your dog or cat is overweight, especially if he or she has a long coat. Consult your vet, if necessary to find out what your pet should weigh. In the meantime, here are some tell-tale signs.

• Look for a tucked tummy. When you view your pet from the side, does its belly tuck up into the area between his ribs and hindquarters? That’s where you want it. You don’t want it to sag below his ribcage, or even hang on a straight line with his ribcage. For furry pets, wrap a thin cloth around their torso in order to see their shape.
• Feel his ribs. Position yourself over your standing pet. Reach down and feel its ribs. You should be able to feel them easily, with only a slight layer of fat. You should be able to feel each individual rib.
• Look for a “waist.” With your pet still standing, look at him from above. You should be able to see a definite waist between his ribcage and his hindquarters.

Be alert to physical signs. Fat pets, especially dogs, might have difficulty jumping onto couches or beds. Or they may show labored breathing after climbing the stairs or walking up a hill. The very obese pet may even have trouble getting its feet.

Help Your Pet Maintain Its Ideal Weight

Again, just like people, pets need a healthy lifestyle to main their ideal weight.

• Change the way you feed him. Cut back on the number of treats you offer your pet, and/or offer smaller pieces. Better yet, treat them with small carrots or pieces of apple (No grapes, raisins or onions as they can be toxic to your pet). Monitor your pet’s weight and adjust until you reach the balance that is right for your pet. Do not free-feed (leave food out for the pet to nibble on all day). Some animals can handle free-feeding without weight problems. Most cannot.
• Gradually increase your pet’s exercise. If you are not exercising your pet, you’re not only letting him down, you are missing out on a great bonding experience. Start now. Play fetch with your dog or take him to the dog park and be sure he runs and plays with the other dogs. Most dogs won’t exercise themselves when put out in a yard alone. Taking your dog out for walks also gets in your exercise. Start slowly – regular exercise is much better than high-energy workouts once in awhile. As he becomes more fit, begin to gradually increase his exercise intensity and duration. Cats need exercise too, though they may act like they couldn’t care less. Sometimes you need to trick them into it. Laser lights and wind-up toys they can chase across the floor, and tall cat trees they can climb are all things you can try with your cat. The main thing is to get her moving. Go slowly; a cat’s interest span is shorter than a dog’s. Use your imagination and before you know it, you and your kitty will be having a great time playing together – in other words, exercising!

Most of us have never thought that much about it. It was brought to my attention recently, when, not only did I lose my own beloved Willy (Sheltie), but several other pet parents, clients and friends, have also lost their beloved pet. All had to answer the question: What do I do now?

I did an internet search and found several sites for Pet Grief Counseling, but very little information about the actual disposal of the body of the dearly departed pet.

When I lived on a ranch in the country, it was common practice to bury the pet in the backyard, garden or other place where we could visit the gravesite when we wished. It is illegal to do that in most cities. It’s now part of the required disclosure when you sell a house. If there is a pet buried in the backyard, the seller must pay to have the remains removed and disposed of properly.

Okay. So, what do you do?

I called my vet who gave me the name of two local companies who will pick up your pet and bury or cremate the remains for you. Or, I could leave the pet’s body with the vet, where the burial company can pick it up and carry out your instructions for end of life services.

Here, in San Diego, you have the choice of burial services or cremation. The burial services are usually more expensive and include a maintenance fee for keeping the site attractive.

Three types of cremation services are available: Communal or Mass Cremation means that the remains of your pet are cremated along with a number of other pets. The remains can be disposed of as you wish – scattered at sea or some other place the crematorium provides; Private Cremation places the pet in a separate compartment for the cremation. The ashes are then returned to the pet owner; the third type of cremation is Individual Cremation where the pet is cremated entirely alone.

You can have the ashes stored in your choice of urns. The crematorium will help you choose one to suit you, the pet and your pocketbook.

To find the burial and cremation sites near you, search the internet for “Pet Remains” and your city.

What is your personality type?

1. Are you laid back and take things as they come?
2. Are you active and like sports or other energetic activities?
3. Are you introverted or shy?
4. Are you an outgoing extrovert?

2.   What are you looking for in a grown dog? Remember, the pup will grow up.

1. Do you want a watchdog?
2. Do you want your dog to accompany you in sports?
3. Do you want your dog to curl up on your lap and cuddle?
4. Do you want him to sleep at your feet?
5. Do you want him (or her) to be large or tiny – or in-between?

• Research the personality of different breeds to find one whose natural tendencies are what you are looking for in a dog.

2.   Bond With Your Dog

Teach him to let you…

1.   Cradle him on his back
2.   Lay him on his side and flip him over
3.   Examine his body, ears, feet and teeth

These actions, done correctly, establish trust in the pup and help him to see that you are the leader.

3.  Housebreaking

  Three Golden Rules

1.   Confine him
   1. a)       Use a crate
      1.  Confine him no longer than his age in months plus 1(example: a three-month old should not be confined longer than four hours at a time without a break).
2.   Supervise him
   1. a)      When he is not in the crate, tether him to you.
3.   Regulate him
   1. a)       Let him out on a regular schedule
      1. Do not use harsh corrections when he makes a mistake

4.   Explore And Socialize –

Poor Socialization is the most common cause of aggression in a dog.  

Take him to explore and familiarize him with:

1.   People, kids playing, strangers who want to pet him.
2.   Traffic, kids on skateboards, loud trucks.
3.   Other dogs.
4.   Leave him alone at times so he knows you will come back.
5.   Grooming – including bathing, brushing, nail trimming, teeth and ear cleaning.

 It is important that you do NOT comfort him when he shows fear. Instead, re-direct his attention until he becomes less sensitive to the experience. Reward him as he shows less fear.

5.         Teach Him The Rules Of Your Pack

Train him:

1. Leash Training – Walk on a leash without pulling
2. Come (or Recall) – The most critical cue to teach him.
3. Sit, Stand and Down – These will help you to control him in all types of situations and environment.
4. Stay and Wait – Stay means to remain in position until told to break; Wait means to pause, usually while you are doing something, like going through a door. You tell him to “wait,” you go through the door and then ask him to join you. You will use this command a lot.
5. Leave it – means “Do not touch it, smell it, lick it, pick it up or pay attention to it in any way.”
6. Gently – A courteous dog takes food “gently” from your hand.
7. Greeting guests with manners – Teach him to wait until he is invited to greet guests.

I can assist in all aspects of the dog adoption and parenting process by providing:

• A personality quiz for the prospective puppy parent.
• Breed-specific characterizations.
• Accompany parent to pick out the pup.
• Housebreaking assistance – from schedules to hands-on.
• Basic obedience classes or one-on-one training.

For more information, visit me at www.grandmadeespetcare.com.

Kira lives, along with her “sister” Samantha, with their pet parents, Susan and Tony. Kira is a small, beautiful, friendly Manx.

Samantha is larger and gorgeous with long white hair and brown spots. We have taken care of the two of them several times. Their litter is kept in two boxes in an upstairs bathroom. They eat separately downstairs in the kitchen. All had been going well. When Susan called for a booking date in late October she mentioned that Kira had been having “accidents” in the living room, downstairs. She couldn’t understand it because Kira has always been so well behaved.

I suggested she have her vet check Kira to be sure there were no health issues. She came back with a clean bill of health. During the Thanksgiving visits, Kira, indeed, did indeed leave several “gifts” (both urine and excrement) in the living room.

Samantha usually makes herself scarce when we come in to feed them and clean the litter boxes. During these visits, she did not show her beautiful fluffy face, but we did not think too much of it. She usually hides under the bed in the master bedroom. Then, we realized that Samantha had not been coming downstairs to eat. We began taking her food and water upstairs for her.

It occurred to me then that “the girls” were having some kind of spat. I thought that Kira was not going upstairs and Samantha was not coming downstairs. They had gotten along for years, but for some reason seemed to be having a problem now. I mentioned this to Susan and Tony upon their return and suggested they leave a litter box downstairs for Kira for a few days to see if that helped the situation.

When we visited again in late December, Susan reported that placing the extra litter box downstairs seemed to work. Kira had not had any more accidents in the living room. And we saw no signs of wavering during that entire two-week visit.

I checked with Susan to get her permission to write this story and here is how she responded:

“Hi, Andee. I still use it.  They both seem to love it downstairs–especially Kira. I take it out and put it in the entry area of the living room when we go to bed and leave it out in the early am until after they are fed.  Kira will sometimes use it after she eats.  Once she uses it in the am I clean it and put it back in the garage.

She has had 2 “accidents” (only poop not urine) since I started using it in as per your suggestion back in late October.  My house doesn’t work to keep a downstairs one all the time but this is fine with us.

Thanks for the advice and yes write about it as it might help someone else.”

All of these stories are from “Healthy Pets and other creatures great and small,” compiled by Ginny Vaughn and Betsy McMahan, Copyright © 2001.

Dog Story from Mary Kaczor

“Duke is our 12 year old, very loved, yellow Lab. In the past nine months, his joints have gotten progressively stiffer. Getting up and down steps is difficult. In the morning, he could hardly get up. We started giving him 8 Alfalfa and 2 Osteokinetics per day. After two months, he was going up and down steps with ease and getting right up in the morning!

Within the last six months we also noticed he was panting from the slightest exertion. I started calling him the Pink Panter! This panting had nothing to do with his being hot or thirsty, he just panted all the time. He only stopped when was asleep. We started giving him 1 Vita-Lea a day. After a few weeks, my husband commented, “Duke isn’t panting anymore. It has to be the Vita-Lea!” It’s amazing! Thanks to Shaklee, I think we may be blessed with Duke for a few more wonderful years.”

Cat Story from Lynn Toney

“Schaltzie’s short black hair, once thick and shiny, was thin and scraggly, with scaly, itchy lesions on the skin of his back, stomach and legs. It looked like mange. Schaltzie, 16, constantly licked, itched and scratched, often breaking the skin open. Advice and medicine from the vet did not help. I began giving Shaltzie Instant Protein 2 x a day. Within several days he seemed happier and friskier than I’d seen him in ages. His hair started growing back in the bald spots and the itching seemed less severe. His skin cleared up quickly.

For years, Schaltzie had fibrous fatty tumors. One day after we’d started Shaklee products, I was petting him and accidentally hit one of those very large, hard lumps and witnessed a strange sight. On top of the bump was a tiny hole. It looked like a worm was trying to come out. The more I  pressed around the lump, stiff material curled up out. It was like paste. I washed the wound with Basic-H and water. I continued this process and in 2 days, that lump was gone. In a week, all the lumps were gone. I was SO amazed. Much time, money and trouble had been spent in vain over the years. Shaklee products took care of the problem with a few weeks. If I had been giving the animals Shaklee products from the beginning, we probably would not have had all the problems in the first place.

As animals age, they tend to lose weight and interest in life. I kept Schaltzie on the Protein and Liqui-Lea and, periodically, Herb-Lax for the rest of his life. He gained weight and had a skip in his step until his death several years later.”

Vet Gives Personal Testimonial from Molly C. Spicuzza, DVM, White Lake, MI

“This is a personal testimonial about the wonderful Basic-G germicidal cleaner. Two employees at my clinic were very sensitive to chemical odors. When we began using Basic-G, there were no more complaints of headaches from chemical fumes. Basic-G is also a great cleaner. The kennel help finds it removes dried blood better than any product we have used. The clinic also uses Basic-G in the mop bucket to disinfect the floors throughout the day.

I personally use Basic-H (now Basic H²) to wash my hands between patients. In the past my hands have been dry, red, and cracked from washing with harsh soaps. Basic-H doesn’t strip the natural protective coating from one’s skin. The dry, cracked skin has healed.

I’ve been using Shaklee’s nutritional products to help animals with allergies and hip dysplasia and been happy with the results. I’ve been using Osteokintetics(now Joint Health Complex) to help dogs with osteoarthritis with good results. It’s the best glucosamine product on the market, and is less expensive than any comparable veterinary product. It’s worked better than I expected in dogs with hip dysplasia. The recommended dose of Osteokinetics(Joint Health Complex) for dogs is as follows: Less than 25 pounds – 1 x day, 25 to 50 pounds -1(capsule) 2 x day, 50 pounds and over – 2 in the AM, 1 in the PM.

Note: The parentheses are mine.

These are just a few of the stories I have. If you have a specific problem, contact me and I will see what others have found as helpful and get back to you.

My life will probably last 10-15 years. Any separation from you is a mystery to me.

10. On the ultimate difficult journey, go with me please. Never say you can’t bear to watch. Don’t make me face this alone. Everything is easier for me if you are there, because I love you so.

Take a moment today to appreciate your pets. Enjoy them, love them, and take good care of them. Life would be much duller and much less joyful without God’s critters.
 We do not have to wait for Heaven,  to be surrounded by hope, love, and joyfulness. It is here on earth and has four legs!

1. Understand the differences in animal priorities. To cats, physical space is all important. To dogs, social order is all important. As long as the dog accepts the cat’s dominance over territory, they typically work out a relationship.
2. Think positively. Act with authority and confidence. What you feel and think translates to your actions, and your animals sense your emotions.
3. Realize that dogs and cats do not communicate the same way and have trouble understanding one another. For example, a dog will lift his paw gesturing that he wants to play, but a raised paw to a cat is a threat.
4. A good-natured, well-trained resident dog often accepts a young cat as a member of the family rather easily. In contrast, introducing an adult cat to a puppy can be hard on the cat. Puppies are rambunctious and full of energy.
5. Keep the dog on leash during introductions. Use a halter for very young dogs. Try to keep the leash loose.
6. Take dogs to puppy obedience and regular obedience school and teach desired behavior using positive reinforcement. Your dog needs to always remember you are the leader.
7. Confining a puppy or dog is necessary at times. It gives the cat time to roam about the house, surveying his territory. If you keep the dog separated with a gate or in an exercise pen, your cat can safely investigate the newcomer.
8. When you leave the house, separate the animals in secure, separated areas. Give each access to water, a bed or other suitable resting place, and some toys. Be sure the cat has access to a litter box. Make sure everyone in your family and any caretakers understand the need to separate the animals.
9. For the cat’s safety, make sure the cat has escape routes to get away from the dog. For example, a cat door leading to another room in the house and ledges on which he can easily jump. Always provide places where each animal can retreat for safety and privacy, a spot that is his or hers alone. A cat can use the top of the refrigerator; a dog can use a crate.

10.  Use a baby gate so they can get to know each other without coming into full contact. Or confine the new pet to a room and allow the animals to sniff each other under the door.  Put up a baby gate at the top of a stairway or in a doorway. (Stack gates one atop another if the dog’s a jumper.) Cut a small hole in the gate, just big enough for the cat to fit through. Things typically improve once the cat learns he has an escape hatch.

11.  Other escape hatches include floor-to-ceiling climbers and installing extra-long hooks and eyes in doors to prop a door open just wide enough for a cat.

12.  Teach the dog the “leave it” command, and use this command when you want the dog to leave the cat alone. Also teach the dog the “down” and “stay” commands so that you can place her in a down-stay in the presence of the cat.

13.  Praise the dog when she doesn’t bark or want to chase resident cats, advises PAW volunteer Ginnie Maurer. Praise and reward the dog for any calm behavior around the cat. Do this consistently, not just once in awhile.

14.  Praise a cat when he’s gentle around the dog. Keep the cat claws clipped short so if they do connect with the dog, the damage will be minimized.

15.  Observe your pets so that you can catch them in the act of being good. Give them ample opportunities to earn praise so that they learn what you deem as acceptable behavior. Reinforcing good behavior is the key to encouraging animals to repeat that behavior instead of engaging in undesired behavior.

16.  Food can be a powerful motivator. You can use food treats to reward a dog for choosing to look at and listen to you in the presence of the cat, instead of chasing the cat.

17.  Keep dog toys nearby. Direct the dog to a toy and away from the cat when the dog gets rambunctious. Make sure cats have access to their own toys too, so they’re less likely to target a dog’s tail as a plaything.

18.  Make sure to give the dog plenty of exercise so that he has less energy to channel into chasing and otherwise pestering the cat.

19.  Let animals sniff each other — that’s how they get acquainted.

20.  Avoid overreacting to hissing, barking or growling. These are common ways for animals to communicate. However, be ready to intervene if hostility mounts.

21.  Do not expect the pets to become buddies right away. Let the animals establish the relationship at their own pace. Realize that some dogs and cats will not become buddies.

22.  A puppy’s innocent behavior can trigger a serious scratching from a wary cat, so as always, it’s important to keep watch.

23.  Prevent the dog from having access to the kitty litter box. Keep the box in a room that’s physically off-limits to the dog. Dogs like to eat cat droppings, which are very unhealthy for them.

24.  To keep a dog from chasing or stalking cats when you are home but otherwise occupied, use a crate or tether the dog to a heavy piece of furniture. Or use a long leash that’s tied at your waist.

25.  Keep in mind that predatory behavior comes naturally to both dogs and cats. They like to chasing moving objects, including other animals.

26.  If you have more than one dog, do not let them gang up on a cat.

27.  Be sure to pay attention to the resident pets. Take care not to give all your attention to the newcomer.

28.  During mealtimes, each animal needs to feel safe and relaxed while eating. An animal who feels the need to defend his food is under much stress (this will also affect digestion). At least initially, feed in separate areas and give the animals their own food bowls. It helps to give the cat an elevated place to eat that cannot be reached by the dog. The height gives the cat a sense of security.

29.  Introduce new pets when things are going well at home. Do not bring a new pet home during a stressful time in the household.